Lincoln - England's best kept secret ~ By John Males

Lincoln is half way up on the right, 150 miles north of London, less than two hours by train or three by road from the capital. It is one of England's oldest cities and was a Roman town rivalling London in importance. There are still impressive Roman remains here including the 3rd-century Newport Arch, the only Roman arch still being used by traffic. Later in medieval times it retained its national importance through commerce, particularly the wool trade. After that its fortunes gradually waned until a l9th-century revival in the form of heavy industry. The world's first battlefield tank was designed and built here for example, and is now on display in the city. Lincoln has once again become one of England's fastest growing townships, albeit with sensitivity and with a population still under 80,000

So what is at the top of that hill? Probably Europe's greatest medieval building, the cathedral - the city's crowning glory. People come from around the world to experience its huge gothic beauty. Should you like music, Sung Evensong is a joy not to be missed. During school term-time the choir of men and boys gather in the late afternoon for this most beautiful of services, producing music as spine-tingling in an earthly way as it is spiritually uplifting. The cathedral also acts as a venue for wonderful orchestral and choral occasions. Its organ built by Father Willis in 1898 is ne of the finest anywhere, and to experience it with all the stops out will leave you vibrating for a week

Just across the cobbled square from the cathedral stands the castle (actually an unusual double motte and bailey fort) dating from the Normans' arrival at a time when Lincoln was England's fourth most important town. The walls still stand splendid with a walkway around the top offering the extensive views so necessary for defence. At intervals are fortified towers later used as prisons, still containing stark reminders of what life must have been like for the poor purloiner of a loaf of bread or the debtor of a penny or two before early last century.Within the compound is a Victorian prison building displaying an original copy of the Magna Carta in an impressive setting, one of only four in existence. Another structure houses today's Crown Court behind a facade whose virginia creeper turns a fiery red in autumn.

In the lee of the castle and cathedral is the old quarter of Bailgate (so called because it stands in what was the fort's extensive outer bailey) and Steep Hill, housing small specialist shops and ancient pubs and restaurants. Here you can buy anything from home-made fudge and ice-cream to kites and exclusive clothes. The Whisky Shop sells liquor from the best and least-known distilleries while speciality teas and coffees are offered at Imperial Tea and Coffee on Steep Hill. Restaurants range from the tiny but exclusive Jew's House (so named because it is inside probably England's oldest domestic residence, a l2th-century Jewish merchant's house) to Le Papillon, a not-quite self-explanatory name as the food is very inventive and cosmopolitan. Then there's the rustic Brown's Pie Shop, home of scrumptiously original pies; the Wig and Mitre, a celebrated pub on Steep Hill, now largely turned over to the provision of renowned food; excellent hotel restaurants like Knights at the Castle Hotel; many ethnic restaurants - and so on.

One of Britain's most important toy collections is on display in Westgate, while a few metres away the Lawn Visitor Centre houses everything from a museum of archaeology to a tropical conservatory and more. For those who like art, the Usher Gallery at the bottom of the hill is worth a leisurely visit. Other museums include the excellent Museum of Lincolnshire Life and the Road Transport Museum.